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Sewage Basin

PITMASTER SEWAGE BASIN

The versatility of the Pitmaster™ makes it ideal for use as a sewage basin.

The advantages are greatly improved versatility and serviceability, since no piping or electrical rises thru the lid. Removal of the lid no longer requires any disconnection of pipes or wires. Simply remove the lid for total accessibility.

Also, no holes are pre-cut in the sidewalls of the basin when delivered. This allows for total versatility during installation.

The 1/2" thick polyethylene pad is used in the bottom of the basin as an anti-skid pad for the pump to sit on. The optional 2" thick pad may be placed near the top of the basin (or if risers are used, at the top of the riser section) as an insulator.

SEWAGE BASIN INSTALLATIONS

When installing the Pitmasterä as a sewage Basin, be aware of the two major differences between the Pitmasterä installation, and the old method sewage basin installation.

The Pitmaster™ Basin is set a minimum of 1-1/2" above the finished concrete floor (SEE ILLUSTRATION  A). First determine which of the 8 Basin sidewalls the inlet line will enter. You must use the sidewall area that is void of any ribbing so that the 4" EPDM Piping Gasket, which has a 6-1/2" O.D., will fit flat against the sidewall. (SEE ILLUSTRATION B) In most instances you will drill the hole 13" from the top of the Basin. Locate the center of the sidewall area and mark for drilling. Drill with the proper sized hole-saw (use a 5" hole-saw for the inlet). Place a 1/4"" bead of RTV Sealant in the center groove of the Gasket and fit Gasket into the 5" hole. Position basin in excavated hole, checking for level and height. (Remember the top of Basin should be a minimum of 1-1/2" above the finished floor.) Now install a section of 4" schedule 40 pipe, into gasket at Basin. Compact fill, rock or concrete, around the bottom of Basin. Now the Basin is installed and somewhat rigid.

Lay out the rest of the installation. Install discharge, vent, electrical piping and conduit now. Each requires the use of a 2" EPDM Piping Gasket. (Note: The electrical cords will come through the 2" Schedule 40 Long Sweep 90° Elbow, which is provided in the Basin Package, to above floor.) The three 2" pipes, (two schedule 40 pipes for discharge and vent, and the one schedule 80 electrical riser) exit the sidewalls of the Basin and are roughed above the floor-line alongside the basement side or back wall. (SEE ILLUSTRATION C) Mark and drill the three holes. In most instances, you will drill the holes about 10 inches down from the top of the Basin (SEE ILLUSTRATION B), allowing the 2" EPDM flanges to fit flat against the sidewall. Locate holes to direct piping towards the side or back wall of the basement. (Only use a 3" hole-saw for the 2" EPDM Gasket). Place a 1/4" bead of RTV Sealant in center groove of Gasket before installing. Remember, no pipes or electrical wires come through the Lid when finished. Also, consider whether or not a framed wall is planned for the area and how far out from the concrete wall the pipes should be set. Finish backfilling around Basin, place Lid on Basin, and secure with at least two bolts.

After concrete is poured, finish the vent and drain piping. Install Pump in Basin and route electrical cords through the 2" schedule 40 conduit. Install discharge piping from pump with check valve to 2" schedule 40 discharge piping stub in Basin. CONGRATULATIONS, you now have a sewage Basin that is properly installed. The vent and discharge piping are not protruding through the Lid and flopping around un-strapped in mid-air. The serviceman will greatly appreciate your efforts as all he needs to do is remove the Lid to have complete access to the installation. No more disconnecting the discharge, vent, and electrical to remove the Lid. Everything is intact and the complete operation can be observed.