PITMASTER
SEWAGE BASIN
The
versatility of the Pitmaster™ makes it ideal for use as a sewage
basin.
The
advantages are greatly improved versatility and serviceability, since
no piping or electrical rises thru the lid. Removal of the lid
no longer requires any disconnection of pipes or wires. Simply
remove the lid for total accessibility.
Also,
no holes are pre-cut in the sidewalls of the basin when delivered.
This allows for total versatility during installation.
The 1/2" thick polyethylene pad is used in the bottom of the basin as an anti-skid pad for the pump to sit on. The optional 2" thick pad may be placed near the top of the basin (or if risers are used, at the top of the riser section) as an insulator. SEWAGE BASIN INSTALLATIONS When installing the Pitmasterä as a sewage Basin, be aware of the two major differences between the Pitmasterä installation, and the old method sewage basin installation. The
Pitmaster™ Basin is set a minimum of 1-1/2" above the finished
concrete floor (SEE ILLUSTRATION A). First determine
which of the 8 Basin sidewalls the inlet line will enter. You must
use the sidewall area that is void of any ribbing so that the 4" EPDM
Piping Gasket, which has a 6-1/2" O.D., will fit flat against
the sidewall. (SEE ILLUSTRATION B) In most instances you will
drill the hole 13" from the top of the Basin. Locate the center
of the sidewall area and mark for drilling. Drill with the proper
sized hole-saw (use a 5" hole-saw for the inlet). Place a 1/4"" bead
of RTV Sealant in the center groove of the Gasket and fit Gasket
into the 5" hole. Position basin in excavated hole, checking
for level and height. (Remember the top of Basin should be a minimum
of 1-1/2" above the finished floor.) Now install a section of
4" schedule 40 pipe, into gasket at Basin. Compact fill, rock
or concrete, around the bottom of Basin. Now the Basin is installed and
somewhat rigid.
Lay
out the rest of the installation. Install discharge, vent, electrical
piping and conduit now. Each requires the use of a 2" EPDM Piping
Gasket. (Note: The electrical cords will come through the 2" Schedule
40 Long Sweep 90° Elbow, which is provided in the Basin Package,
to above floor.) The three 2" pipes, (two schedule 40 pipes
for discharge and vent, and the one schedule 80 electrical riser)
exit the sidewalls of the Basin and are roughed above the floor-line
alongside the basement side or back wall. (SEE ILLUSTRATION C)
Mark and drill the three holes. In most instances, you will drill
the holes about 10 inches down from the top of the Basin (SEE
ILLUSTRATION B), allowing the 2" EPDM flanges to fit flat
against the sidewall. Locate holes to direct piping towards the side
or back wall of the basement. (Only use a 3" hole-saw for the
2" EPDM Gasket). Place a 1/4" bead of RTV Sealant in center
groove of Gasket before installing. Remember, no pipes or electrical
wires come through the Lid when finished. Also, consider whether
or not a framed wall is planned for the area and how far out from
the concrete wall the pipes should be set. Finish backfilling around
Basin, place Lid on Basin, and secure with at least two bolts.
After
concrete is poured, finish the vent and drain piping. Install Pump
in Basin and route electrical cords through the 2" schedule
40 conduit. Install discharge piping from pump with check valve to
2" schedule 40 discharge piping stub in Basin. CONGRATULATIONS,
you now have a sewage Basin that is properly installed. The vent
and discharge piping are not protruding through the Lid and flopping
around un-strapped in mid-air. The serviceman will greatly appreciate
your efforts as all he needs to do is remove the Lid to have complete
access to the installation. No more disconnecting the discharge,
vent, and electrical to remove the Lid. Everything is intact and
the complete operation can be observed.
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